For the isNight() function of the Arduino intervalometer and datalogger an approximate sunset and sunrise is taken for each month - stored as ints in two arrays sunrise[12] and sunset[12].
Estimates will be based on the NAOO spreadsheet available from;
http://www.esrl.noaa.gov/gmd/grad/solcalc/calcdetails.html
the rest of the program is heavily influenced by the adafruit temp/light 'fridgelogger'
http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/lighttemp.html
I've added a function for taking photos - but it isn't much more involved than blinking two LEDs. Ultimately one of these pins will turn on the GoPro (pull pin 30 low) and the other will drive the IR LED. Obviously I've also added the onewire and ds2348 libraries instead of using the analog pins.
This is the unofficial development blog of Bufocam, the toad tunnel camera system for monitoring the use of wildlife tunnels and culverts by amphibians.
Sunday, 30 December 2012
Monday, 24 December 2012
Arduino 1-wire Datalogger
Playing with bits of wire.
SD card and RTC tested.probably will use Lady Ada's fridge logger and SD/RTC test sketches as a template;
http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/lighttempwalkthru.html
combining the RTC and SD examples to test the board have got me pretty close to it already;
http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/download.html
https://github.com/adafruit/SD
https://github.com/adafruit/RTClib
That all works. Need some data.
http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_OneWire.html
One wire example picks up the DS1820 easily enough, need to look at humidity.
This looks promising;
https://code.google.com/p/gfb/source/browse/#svn/arduino/DS2438
Some notes on it here, (may not be relevant)
http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,49368.0.html
This looks like Arduino 1 code, replace #include "WConstants.h" with #include "Arduino.h". That's just something I read here; http://blog.makezine.com/2011/12/01/arduino-1-0-is-out-heres-what-you-need-to-know/
This does something too...
http://tj3sat.wikidot.com/forum/t-255274/arduino-code-for-ds2438
yet another link... sht15 more accurate than HIH4013?
http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/Sensirion
Friday, 14 December 2012
go pro notes
bus pinouts
http://goprouser.freeforums.org/the-gopro-hero-hd-bus-interface-moved-see-last-post-t797-50.htmlhttp://chargeconverter.com/blog/?p=71
pin 12 for time lapse
http://benlo.com/msp430/GoProController.htmlthanks to this site I got the name of the DD1P030MA1 connector;
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/435699/?cm_mmc=UK-PPC-0212-_-03_Supplier_A-L_02_2012-_-JAE|Telephone_and_Telecom-_-DD1P030MA1
http://uk.farnell.com/jae/dd1p030ma1/plug-dd1-0-5mm-30way/dp/1908651
IR board lens
http://scorpionvision.co.uk/catalogue-index/camera-lenses/board-camera-lenses-m12/1-9mm-lens-for-board-camera
another arduino link
http://code.google.com/p/arducam-osd/wiki/GoPro_HD_Hacking
Wednesday, 5 December 2012
some Arduino links
http://www.oomlout.co.uk/arduino-usb-uno-p-252.html
SD cards
http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/SD
http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/SDCardNotes
http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/sd.html
1 Wire
http://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/OneWire
Datalogging
http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Datalogger
http://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoweather/files/
http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/
http://www.oomlout.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=256
http://www.instructables.com/id/Logger-Shield-Datalogging-for-Arduino/
http://makeprojects.com/Project/Arduino+Data-Logging+Shield+Kit/949/1#.UL_GWoVGMhs
http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/buildingblocks/sd-card-logging
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v5A3j7Rrco
http://www.nuelectronics.com/estore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20
http://www.nuelectronics.com/estore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=34
http://learn.adafruit.com/dht
Time Lapse
http://www.instructables.com/id/arduino-module-for-time-lapse-photography/http://www.instructables.com/id/Time-Lapse-Photography/
http://benlo.com/msp430/GoProController.html
http://interface.khm.de/index.php/lab/experiments/sleep_watchdog_battery/
http://www.rocketscream.com/blog/2011/07/04/lightweight-low-power-arduino-library/
http://startgrid.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/tutorial-creating-timestamp-on.html
http://simplecv.org/learn/examples.html
http://bogdanmarian.com/motion/
http://mikenz.geek.nz/blog/gopro-hd-hero2-arduino/
http://www.instructables.com/id/IR-digital-camera-mod-keeps-autofocus-intact/step2/Remove-the-IR-reflective-coating/
http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/ds18b20-arduino
Sensors
http://uk.farnell.com/honeywell-s-c/hih-6121-021-001/sensor-humidity-filtered/dp/2145997
http://proto-pic.co.uk/humidity-and-temperature-sensor-dht22/?gclid=CIvJwvernbQCFSTLtAod5S0ABQ
Tuesday, 4 December 2012
Lighting
I've been using these in tests so far;
RS 654-8334
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ir-leds/6548334/?searchTerm=654-8334&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E5D5C647B332C347D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D424552267573743D3635342D383333342677633D4E4F4E4526
Note Anode (+ve) is the SHORT LEG!
Vf = 1.5V
If= 100mA
six of them light the test tunnel area quite well, at 100mA they are taking almost as much power as my camera - but sensible options all seem to be coming in around this value.
RS 736-2358
The Golden Dragon LED may be too powerful for lighting a 50cm tunnel, and even present a possible hazard... As 'IR illumination for cameras' is second on the list of applications to 'surveillance systems' I assume the H&S warnings pertain to 5A burst mode - I'll need to check this before I deploy one, but I'm picking up one to test.
RS 710-4944
another wide beam IR LED with a reasonable output. Wavelength higher than the 880nm LED above, but SMT package less friendly
Vf = 1.35V
If = 100mA
Looking at current draw v performance, i'm going to stick with RS 654-8334. (All my notes are still in the loft where I tested them.)
For a rainy day;
I'm thinking I could try and knock the voltage down for the dragon with a switch mode regulator and not have to burn so much power off, but if the LED's i have are good enough it might not be worth it.
Infrared T-1 LED 880nm 130° SFH487P
RS 654-8334
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ir-leds/6548334/?searchTerm=654-8334&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E5D5C647B332C347D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D424552267573743D3635342D383333342677633D4E4F4E4526
Note Anode (+ve) is the SHORT LEG!
Vf = 1.5V
If= 100mA
six of them light the test tunnel area quite well, at 100mA they are taking almost as much power as my camera - but sensible options all seem to be coming in around this value.
Infra-Red 850nm LED Star 950mW "Golden Dragon"
RS 736-2358
The Golden Dragon LED may be too powerful for lighting a 50cm tunnel, and even present a possible hazard... As 'IR illumination for cameras' is second on the list of applications to 'surveillance systems' I assume the H&S warnings pertain to 5A burst mode - I'll need to check this before I deploy one, but I'm picking up one to test.
Vishay LED IrLED 940nm PLCC
RS 710-4944
another wide beam IR LED with a reasonable output. Wavelength higher than the 880nm LED above, but SMT package less friendly
Vf = 1.35V
If = 100mA
Looking at current draw v performance, i'm going to stick with RS 654-8334. (All my notes are still in the loft where I tested them.)
For a rainy day;
I'm thinking I could try and knock the voltage down for the dragon with a switch mode regulator and not have to burn so much power off, but if the LED's i have are good enough it might not be worth it.
notes on time lapse method
Fig 1 - Bufocam 001 - The camera input is currently taking a video feed from my media player.
I'm drawing a line under ARM processors for now as the funding is here and moving forward with the working Vivotek device and independent temp/humidity loggers. The massive tuffbox full of lead acid batteries is unattractive, so now Plan A is in the bag with off the shelf parts and a correspondingly short lead time. I'm looking at another option that as been on the back burner.
Time lapse recording in the trail cameras I've looked at (bushnell / reconyx) is limited to 1 frame a minute. Looking at work in Canada and mean amphibian velocities (Hels 2001) it is know that this frequency is too slow, certainly for Rana temporaria! The Bushnell I have would also be a really shit choice of camera to put in a tunnel.
A system that can capture images every 10/20/30 seconds is going to need a bit more work;
I like the image of time lapse with PIC, (for battery consumption), but as it's already been done with Arduino it would seem sensible to go with what's out there. Either way it just seems like a matter of physically switching the shutter button; http://www.instructables.com/id/Time-Lapse-Photography/
Stripping the IR cut filter is another well trodden path; http://www.nigelrichards.org.uk/Experiments%20in%20Infrared.htm
Getting the images out of the camera while leaving it in situ relies on it behaving like a USB storage device - and no settings would need to be adjusted - ie 'PC mode'. maybe the intervalometer needs to be disabled during this task.
Then tie all this in with an SD card and 1-wire libraries... see earlier post.
wakes up ready to take photos with last settings.
takes a 32gb SD card
IR moddable
behaves as USB storage device
wide angle lens - or will take adaptor
decent sensor - low noise in low light
Reviewing the time-lapse images doesn't seem so bad once they are compiled as a movie. I've had some success running a time-lapse movie through motion detection too, (which is why the prototype bufocam is plugged into my media player). The smart solution will be something like a simplecv script I guess - for now watching it through seems ok.
All i need now is an Arduino and a compact camera to hack apart. Any donors out there please get in touch....
I'm drawing a line under ARM processors for now as the funding is here and moving forward with the working Vivotek device and independent temp/humidity loggers. The massive tuffbox full of lead acid batteries is unattractive, so now Plan A is in the bag with off the shelf parts and a correspondingly short lead time. I'm looking at another option that as been on the back burner.
Time lapse recording in the trail cameras I've looked at (bushnell / reconyx) is limited to 1 frame a minute. Looking at work in Canada and mean amphibian velocities (Hels 2001) it is know that this frequency is too slow, certainly for Rana temporaria! The Bushnell I have would also be a really shit choice of camera to put in a tunnel.
A system that can capture images every 10/20/30 seconds is going to need a bit more work;
I like the image of time lapse with PIC, (for battery consumption), but as it's already been done with Arduino it would seem sensible to go with what's out there. Either way it just seems like a matter of physically switching the shutter button; http://www.instructables.com/id/Time-Lapse-Photography/
Stripping the IR cut filter is another well trodden path; http://www.nigelrichards.org.uk/Experiments%20in%20Infrared.htm
Getting the images out of the camera while leaving it in situ relies on it behaving like a USB storage device - and no settings would need to be adjusted - ie 'PC mode'. maybe the intervalometer needs to be disabled during this task.
Then tie all this in with an SD card and 1-wire libraries... see earlier post.
Camera requirements that I can think of...
silent(ish) and no focussing lightswakes up ready to take photos with last settings.
takes a 32gb SD card
IR moddable
behaves as USB storage device
wide angle lens - or will take adaptor
decent sensor - low noise in low light
Reviewing the time-lapse images doesn't seem so bad once they are compiled as a movie. I've had some success running a time-lapse movie through motion detection too, (which is why the prototype bufocam is plugged into my media player). The smart solution will be something like a simplecv script I guess - for now watching it through seems ok.
All i need now is an Arduino and a compact camera to hack apart. Any donors out there please get in touch....
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