tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-84840735839687458362024-03-05T14:45:21.319-08:00Bufocam: the toad tunnel cameraThis is the unofficial development blog of Bufocam, the toad tunnel camera system for monitoring the use of wildlife tunnels and culverts by amphibians. Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.comBlogger52125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-56049949057104713662014-06-07T15:20:00.002-07:002014-06-07T15:28:51.334-07:00Big and Small<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx_cYnjogUGjrP9XT-oOH-lHXZKHF5YytMQPgyEfJ2ddstaWLA9YNE2Xyn2h8U81oTESHcDocQs_ONlxMZnGuI7pWGnCHVtmhPmLtQw3zlSEBLoPSVOj0G51QBqiSfZATLVBgQhLRb7qM/s1600/BigAndSmall.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx_cYnjogUGjrP9XT-oOH-lHXZKHF5YytMQPgyEfJ2ddstaWLA9YNE2Xyn2h8U81oTESHcDocQs_ONlxMZnGuI7pWGnCHVtmhPmLtQw3zlSEBLoPSVOj0G51QBqiSfZATLVBgQhLRb7qM/s1600/BigAndSmall.gif" height="298" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-5840706755366120212014-02-24T13:02:00.000-08:002014-02-24T13:02:07.057-08:00First toad in the tunnel 2014Enough pictures of wires; it's sexy time for toads.<br />
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Here's the first in the tunnel for 2014.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxPr6DZabci0uiXFJfp2zWMCLuQ-EQA-FM41PQ_usyfu0QJQU5ecL3KgE9Cvr-GHvc8yki28KtNLisZmN5bOJIaG4_ouDnuiVkqJ8xYCvTJrNOAualeEYhVyK8Or9VH9we4QHOhvugCKI/s1600/First+toad+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxPr6DZabci0uiXFJfp2zWMCLuQ-EQA-FM41PQ_usyfu0QJQU5ecL3KgE9Cvr-GHvc8yki28KtNLisZmN5bOJIaG4_ouDnuiVkqJ8xYCvTJrNOAualeEYhVyK8Or9VH9we4QHOhvugCKI/s1600/First+toad+2014.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-1918270593839455122013-12-23T14:52:00.001-08:002013-12-23T14:52:53.003-08:00Bufocam v2 Raspberry Pi PCB using Atmel 328 (arduino) microcontroller<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-VDseZkBTGlIcxdDsr_CasXGpqSt18kk5Nqx5ddITwemRqTNrumDE2prU4EN-lAGs2Pfpgd-fkL9MT0EqP2HzIMOvJ5D4-ycDWlct9oFRCAaPJhE69hShLVRCSyYQW4WgdInT1ALDbGA/s1600/DSC_0021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-VDseZkBTGlIcxdDsr_CasXGpqSt18kk5Nqx5ddITwemRqTNrumDE2prU4EN-lAGs2Pfpgd-fkL9MT0EqP2HzIMOvJ5D4-ycDWlct9oFRCAaPJhE69hShLVRCSyYQW4WgdInT1ALDbGA/s640/DSC_0021.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6P_VdkwpAbTU3O1FqXvyvnBjAm7Mwt-Y_iJybIb11LW87JeasGXbDSg3LT2aMSu-jBRB2-Knnb_coZGM2HnEBYT0792jQbHD8J9GW7mtVxGrgs16-ambZ1P_agbj_7MQ0tHdvIc0xYT4/s1600/DSC_0020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6P_VdkwpAbTU3O1FqXvyvnBjAm7Mwt-Y_iJybIb11LW87JeasGXbDSg3LT2aMSu-jBRB2-Knnb_coZGM2HnEBYT0792jQbHD8J9GW7mtVxGrgs16-ambZ1P_agbj_7MQ0tHdvIc0xYT4/s640/DSC_0020.jpg" width="640" /></a>The breadboard/birds nest from the last post is now a shiny PCB - it just needs a box... and bit more programming. Three LEDs and a switch have been added but I haven't decided what they are for yet. Errors, probably. <br />
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To recap; the Arduino controls power to the Raspberry Pi via latched relay. Once the Rpi is up the Arduino just listens for commands on the I2C bus - such as measuring Vin, or controlling the pretty lights or killing the power.The Mosfet 'drivering' the IR LED array is directly controlled by the RPi GPIO. There's a real time clock on the I2C bus too. That's about it really.Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-32832090832914651872013-11-10T12:52:00.001-08:002013-11-10T12:52:12.789-08:00Bufocam2: Raspberry Pi camera + M12 IR lens + Atmel 328 (arduino)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-XXveHqpYz4-A2IREEeoL5j4YmllAIUFMzLgoxGB4659FaRQYPtB6B2anwk7PSFa__LcBwSDTaN_FXcEGngHevEggkHi_RDnMwdaPG1C-JzxhEczyhvIwCAw8AzIxNw2OMdpyuqZeH4/s1600/Bufocam2+breadboard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-XXveHqpYz4-A2IREEeoL5j4YmllAIUFMzLgoxGB4659FaRQYPtB6B2anwk7PSFa__LcBwSDTaN_FXcEGngHevEggkHi_RDnMwdaPG1C-JzxhEczyhvIwCAw8AzIxNw2OMdpyuqZeH4/s640/Bufocam2+breadboard.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<b>Figure 1.</b> An ATMEL 328 (stripboard arduino with uno bootloader), latched relay, DS1307 RTC, camera, mosfet, some IR LEDS and a raspberry pi 'A'. The green and yellow wires are (mostly) an I2C bus on which the ATMEL328 and DS1307 appear as slaves.<br />
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<b>Figure 2.</b> one of 11000 images of a plastic toad and a fallen power droid under a cardboard box.<br />
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Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-58148602330453451552013-09-17T08:33:00.000-07:002013-09-17T08:39:26.282-07:00tunnel data from april/may 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhPH4MX1xt1EUdrSk-QIuaXt0KZwOLr_sXJgGS6rVF9jxoPw-SaQYTHnouKMyvnibBcA2cOA5auEde4vNu0ib_2j2OBTWHDXZlDrBIEn9a0xQN2AklufSrPRE-lQFGqmLhB2tLmnHV2bg/s1600/bufocam+temperature+chart.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhPH4MX1xt1EUdrSk-QIuaXt0KZwOLr_sXJgGS6rVF9jxoPw-SaQYTHnouKMyvnibBcA2cOA5auEde4vNu0ib_2j2OBTWHDXZlDrBIEn9a0xQN2AklufSrPRE-lQFGqmLhB2tLmnHV2bg/s640/bufocam+temperature+chart.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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NB: there was no data for night 105 due to technical issues with the GoPro camera where it wouldn't take more than 4855 images. Recording effort was variable due to other sd card/firmware issues that arose on the second recording night, ( eg numbers on nights 113, 115 are probably representative.) Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-9971878304987000802013-04-25T16:17:00.002-07:002013-04-25T16:17:36.785-07:00Toad tunnel time-lapse<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-86829726663176688802013-04-19T07:17:00.000-07:002013-04-19T12:47:05.602-07:00Some toads!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Finally some results to be a bit proud of. </div>
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Despite a few technical problems, and thanks to the <a href="http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/research/news/cold-spring-2013">cold weather</a>, we still caught the migration.</div>
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Here are some raw images;</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixlgVVNU0eOO04XMA5EAOqRy1M2oh2jP7s6vRA4oX3X7EFOZWRszaVCZP_vcM3pNSmNE0LIS9ubfBPvOL_gZ5I9lsTRYVCbZjo6WfB4e2YXYZWMhCGketZeEn4qmmVQtdvTwLPzEBtgyw/s1600/G9480948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixlgVVNU0eOO04XMA5EAOqRy1M2oh2jP7s6vRA4oX3X7EFOZWRszaVCZP_vcM3pNSmNE0LIS9ubfBPvOL_gZ5I9lsTRYVCbZjo6WfB4e2YXYZWMhCGketZeEn4qmmVQtdvTwLPzEBtgyw/s640/G9480948.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-26609844182890513902013-04-06T13:32:00.001-07:002013-09-24T13:17:40.771-07:00SD card problems on GoPro? - corrupt jpeg frames.Testing prior to installation in the next tunnel, and I'm getting a few images that look like this;<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiKVbE_WO7gR4OA9rpQutiQPrY2pqaZOco_UzyJzZe0DuC0gaJiPIAZ8EC9uXjyjXaRpOGPZqs8avM5vPvP5HXVK5yhOTm-Tt6-OOa7kajkzZd_pjxBfZh5f5Radkxd4qJw1uoZzhuF5w/s1600/G0060006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiKVbE_WO7gR4OA9rpQutiQPrY2pqaZOco_UzyJzZe0DuC0gaJiPIAZ8EC9uXjyjXaRpOGPZqs8avM5vPvP5HXVK5yhOTm-Tt6-OOa7kajkzZd_pjxBfZh5f5Radkxd4qJw1uoZzhuF5w/s640/G0060006.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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GIMP is saying Unexpected end of JPEG file...<br />
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Anecdotal evidence on the internets suggest it's the sd card, so i'll try changing that first.<br />
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UPDATE<br />
Using a Samsung Pro 32GB card like this one seemed to mitigate the problem for one night, then the corruptions begin again. We are also losing files - the whole image is black and only about 127kb;<br />
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http://www.maplin.co.uk/samsung-pro-32gb-sdhc-memory-card-719982<br />
(I wouldn't actually recommend you buy it from Maplin)<br />
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I don't know if it really is the SD card.<br />
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UPDATE 2<br />
This seems to have been cured by the last GoPro firmware update. It wasn't the SD card. <br />
<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-21714554672502591092013-04-06T13:27:00.001-07:002013-04-06T13:27:01.485-07:00Finished circuit board<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-5055375792907908502013-03-13T15:44:00.003-07:002013-03-13T15:46:29.906-07:00BufoCam ATMEL circuit board - Bufoduino?Convention dictates I call this 'bufoduino'. You can, if you like. I'm still calling it BufoCam.<br />
<br />
Much credit is due to the resources at adafruit, which saved me looking at the DS1307 datasheet. (I'm planning to plug their sd-breakout into the SD Card socket so I can seal the control hardware away and have the SD card accessible to the user.)<br />
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<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-21828656549533663112013-02-21T12:26:00.002-08:002013-02-21T12:26:58.874-08:00GoPro IR conversion - stock optics lensConverting a GoPro HD2 is a lens swap. I believe the IR blocking filter unscrews from the back of the original GoPro - but it isn't the case with the GoPro 2 as the filter is coated on the back of a convex-Plano element.<br />
<br />
We tried to order a GoPro 1 lens from ragecam in the states, but it got stuck in customs for so long I had to find an alternative. It was stuck primarily because nobody told us it was there.<br />
<br />
Anyway, in the meantime I found a cheaper solution;<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_795963304"><br /></a>
<a href="http://www.stockoptics.com/board-lenses/cctv-board-lens-day-night-megapixel.html">http://www.stockoptics.com/board-lenses/cctv-board-lens-day-night-megapixel.html</a><br />
CCTV-BL-D/N-2.5-5MP-400-950nm<br />
<br />
Field of view is smaller, so we might swap it out for the ragecam lens at some point... <br />
<br />
If you are thinking of changing a gopro lens there are lots of videos to give you an idea of what's in there on you tube - but I found taking the camera apart was quite straightforward. Most of the instructions I've seen use a heat gun to free the lens. If, like me, you bought the cheaper heat gun you could fin in cpc/poundland then you could try a dab of pure acetone on the lens thread. Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-59739462045865259652013-02-21T12:02:00.000-08:002013-02-21T12:02:51.006-08:00Bufocam prototype and cradle installation<br />
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<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-10104748485149981252013-02-17T13:00:00.000-08:002013-02-17T13:19:20.020-08:00Gopro IR timelapse with arduino shutter controlPrevious attempts to reduce the timing window of the 900mW IR LED led to an unstable system, suggesting the time of the GoPro to power up and take the first image (2800 by experimentation) was shifting over time.<br />
<br />
In order to reduce the power requirement of the IR lamp, and eliminate the sporadic timing of the GoPro one-button timelapse image, the shutter button of the GoPro has been hard wired to a third solid state relay. Grounding the wire via the relay for 250ms appears to work well, but attempts to reduce the timing window below 750ms have so far failed. This is still frustrating, but a great improvement. If the light comes on too late the image is burnt out, but if it turns off too early it produces a black frame. Presumably the GoPro is taking half a second or so to process a meter reading?<br />
<br />
There was some improvement though and another 24hr trial was needed to assess how much difference this had made..<br />
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<h3>
Battery Results</h3>
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<br />
The gradient of the Vin results above look a bit better than in previous experiments.<br />
However, it would appear there are still stability issues.<br />
According to the shutter count on the data log 2902 images were expected, but only 2873 were found. <br />
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<table border="0" cellspacing="0" cols="2" frame="VOID" rules="NONE">
<colgroup><col width="244"></col><col width="255"></col></colgroup>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="20" width="244">Size on disk</td>
<td align="LEFT" width="255">6.92 GB (7,439,613,952 bytes)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="LEFT" height="20">contains</td>
<td align="LEFT">2,873 Files, 3 Folders</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
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<br />
On further scrutiny there are 10 bad images (full frame black) in the first folder, GOPRO100 and 7 bad images in GOPRO101. Timing of the images appears sporadic throughout the test time. Otherwise the first 2771 images look ok, but 16hrs 54mins into the test in GOPRO102 an image appears under the timelapse naming convention, another appears after a few minutes, and then a number of timelapse images at approx 17hr 29mins. Other than being incorrectly named (eg G0010703 instead of GOPR0703.) these images are OK. None of the timelapse images have sequential numbering, so they aren't really a conventional timelapse sequence.<br />
<br />
After 17hrs and 36mins lots of bad images begin to occur. There is the occasional good image, and the occasional bad name, just to confuse things, but the results are really unstable.<br />
<br />
Looking at the battery voltage graph for the lithium battery during this period of instability it appears that the battery is under load at about 3.7V which would suggest the camera has failed to turn off for some reason...<br />
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<br />
<br />
<h3>
Present timings</h3>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"> digitalWrite(cameraPower, HIGH);<br /> delay(250); <br /> digitalWrite(cameraPower, LOW); <br /> delay(3000);<br /> digitalWrite(cameraShutter, HIGH);<br /> delay(250);<br /> digitalWrite(cameraShutter, LOW);<br /> digitalWrite(irLEDpin, HIGH); <br /> delay(750);<br /> digitalWrite(irLEDpin, LOW);<br /> delay(100);<br /> digitalWrite(cameraPower, HIGH);<br /> delay(3000);<br /> digitalWrite(cameraPower, LOW);<br /> delay(250);<br /> digitalWrite(cameraCharger, HIGH);<br /> delay(10000);<br /> digitalWrite(cameraCharger, LOW);</span><br />
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<br />
<h3>
Tulips</h3>
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<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-54759622213234737082013-02-11T13:14:00.000-08:002013-02-11T13:49:30.437-08:00More Arduino / GoPro battery woes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
<h4>
The flat line</h4>
<br />
Notably there are no flat lines in the NiMH battery curve. During the daylight interval, where no images are being taken, it would be desirable to use as little current as possible. There are a few issues here;<br />
<br />
The UNO board is powering serial - USB hardware and some LEDs. <br />
SD card is possibly taking current when not datalogging.<br />
Sleep modes have not been effective, they seem to break the datalogging and don't turn off the extra hardware.<br />
<br />
Action here requires a stripped down processor board. (like this one <a href="http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11109">http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11109</a> ). It would seem sensible to put the rest of the hardware on that board too and do away with plugs and shields. Lowering the clock speed of the Atmel328 may also be prudent.<br />
<br />
Sleep modes may require closing the file and reopening/reinitializing the sd card instead of flushing the file. Further work is needed here. Other tricks to save power involve changing he data pins to inputs and using a mosfet to lift the ground of the SD card.<br />
<br />
<h4>
The yellow line</h4>
At some point around 20hour the GoPro timing shifts out of the lighting window. Other tests have also exhibited half frames, but the results are using black frames of around 260kb. Extending the lighting window to 3 seconds will rectify this, but this is seriously detrimental o battery life.<br />
<br />
Presently the system is momentarily pulling pin 12 of the GoPro connector low and the light comes on 2500ms later. Theoretically the timing of the first frame should be a known quantity but while experimental results appear to show this occurs at 2800ms this has not produced reliable results in the camera. (characteristic black and half black frames as the 'shutter' timing slips out of the lighting window.<br />
<br />
Fixing this is going to require a hardware hack, two wires to close the shutter button remotely through another relay or an optoisolator.<br />
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<br />
<h4>
Charging the GoPro</h4>
<br />
A two battery system has to present some loss of efficiency. At present anecdotal evidence suggests the camera will forget the date and time if the battery is removed for any length of time. It is imperative that the images retain correct date and time of creation.<br />
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<br />
<h4>
Temporary solution</h4>
<br />
Replace the NiMH with a high capacity lithium battery!<br />
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<br />
<h4>
Power saving and the RTC</h4>
<br />
good thread here <br />
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<a href="http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11149">http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11149</a><br />
<br />
Dump the power on the RTC when it isn't it use.<br />
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<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-22791979904719454592013-02-03T12:48:00.000-08:002013-02-03T12:48:08.189-08:00More Battery Life<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX0h5TTYv-iILFYrZJRSd0m1Yr6c1wpuwIpttx0yhYumCo_itlopMsR6pxNfQMkeDvfyFIC7dPq79PKiUubqZFQavyk_bGOKChlZYc3hHjgVLtrqOin0NnaNFIsAOiMZEUvf3osZzUwJg/s1600/D130201_htm_153b6175.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX0h5TTYv-iILFYrZJRSd0m1Yr6c1wpuwIpttx0yhYumCo_itlopMsR6pxNfQMkeDvfyFIC7dPq79PKiUubqZFQavyk_bGOKChlZYc3hHjgVLtrqOin0NnaNFIsAOiMZEUvf3osZzUwJg/s640/D130201_htm_153b6175.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Based on the last test the GoPro isn't going to last the night (at least not in winter) without some help. This test uses a charge interval after each image capture . The example data here run for ten hours (before I couldn't resist having a look) previous tests have run for twelve hours. (There's currently a test running under the stairs that started last night at 10pm which I'll have a look at in the morning.) <br />
<br />
A ten hour test using a two second lighting interval and charging the GoPro for five seconds between each capture. The exact GoPro start up time and initial capture timing is unknown. If these can be measured the lighting duration could be reduced. If there isn't enough light the system behaves erratically, the camera can produce black or corrupt files and the system can get out of sequence. Subsequently it has been hard to deduce the timing window from trail and error and it has been safer to leave the duration at two seconds than risk jeopardizing the experiment. If the demands of the lighting subsystem on the overall battery status are insignificant compared to the charge duration it might not be worth the time it would take to investigate this properly.<br />
<br />
<br />
The charge in the GoPro camera is slowly creeping down so I'm running the current test with a slightly longer charge interval.<br />
<br />
The debug LEDs can be turned off, and the board is still taking 40mA idle which could be improved on. Ultimately these factors may also be insignificant, but it might be prudent to look at sleep intervals - particularly during the day. (The data logging interval period and SD card flush frequency are going to be longer in the 'real thing too, which may make some really small difference.)<br />
<br />
These result look hopeful. Even if the NiMH battery doesn't perform so well in the cold, a lithium ion battery or lithium polymer would offer a better charge density albeit at a greater cost.<br />
<br />
<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-89374702637755239682013-01-25T12:32:00.001-08:002013-01-25T13:11:27.898-08:00Battery life<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghUPukF7wvuAEsmzuvt-6TXA63v9TpVtfGNb6aagc9lgOjzJfbg0bGOLQ49JVKvTeju7niMoy2C7srp6QwoIW-9kvt-BPI38iMdKsPpXkydmZ3aKKcUALXz_rrztrtANknvq5715LzizM/s1600/First+run+D130125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghUPukF7wvuAEsmzuvt-6TXA63v9TpVtfGNb6aagc9lgOjzJfbg0bGOLQ49JVKvTeju7niMoy2C7srp6QwoIW-9kvt-BPI38iMdKsPpXkydmZ3aKKcUALXz_rrztrtANknvq5715LzizM/s640/First+run+D130125.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
the dip at the end of the red line is the GoPro battery giving out. Nearly 8 hours at one frame every twenty seconds - it needs to be better than that, so the camera battery is going to need to be topped up between shots.<br />
<br />
The voltage drop on the big battery looks concerning... maybe I forgot to charge it?<br />
<br />
To help the arduino it may be powered from the switch mode regulator on the power board via the USB.<br />
<br />
Could try putting it to sleep for a few seconds, this may upset the timer. (use the RTC for image/logging times?)<br />
<br />
The debug LED's will be taking a little bit a current too.<br />
<br />
Before fucking about it might be prudent to get an meter across the NiMH current output...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
...looks like approx 60mA running - up to about 85 mA whilst firing the shutter. (including the dummy green LED, which will be a much bigger IR LED on the day.)<br />
<br />
Five minutes later and, after hacking a USB B connector off and blobbing onto the back of the switching regulator we are looking at about 36 mA 'standing around' charge.Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-73727577064802657292013-01-24T14:21:00.000-08:002013-01-24T14:21:20.843-08:00timelapse fun with arduino and gopro<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKfIjEV9VkT6iBcGfE5lXNYoZeVkMx-GuIKqKDvuwsq-FEZtms29vwE7kPOh3reAGgwKlr-yWqCpPIAcP4U_aU3CQErg-OABXgMovOde-p5EkhmbISjrLZgc4lQ4pcPLvM7KNWyAhdGuU/s1600/G0240024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKfIjEV9VkT6iBcGfE5lXNYoZeVkMx-GuIKqKDvuwsq-FEZtms29vwE7kPOh3reAGgwKlr-yWqCpPIAcP4U_aU3CQErg-OABXgMovOde-p5EkhmbISjrLZgc4lQ4pcPLvM7KNWyAhdGuU/s320/G0240024.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I do all my best work with a baby strapped to my front (it's the only way she will sleep more than 30 minutes).<br />
<br />
This seems to work anyway... just as they said it would. I'm using these pins;<br />
<br />
1 GND<br />
5 +5v input<br />
6 +5v input<br />
12 PWR button<br />
23 battery voltage<br />
24 battery voltage when powered, otherwise 0v<br />
30 GND<br />
<br />
Grounding 12 to take a photo, monitoring the gopro battery on 23 and charging it on 5,6.<br />
<br />
The GoPro is setup for a 10 sec timelapse in one button mode. It takes a picture when it powers up - then is powered down. The timing is off for the IR LED at present - the green LED in the photo should be on!<br />
<br />
There are a few sites out there with instructions on building this - I've already posted links to most of them, thanks to everyone who put the time in to reverse engineer the HD bus connector, and make that information public... not to mention risk their camera grounding misc pins.<br />
<br />
I've grounded my pin 12 with a solid state relay and i've added is a mosfet to drive my IR LED lamps. The voltage on pin23 is being logged on the SD logger shield with my temp/RH data, timestamp, and the shutter count.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKZn5nOdbfswr_5ErFTxs_5VhOzqQcicE9HtztdnuulXDBm6YtKPBDzx7PXB2NVcUtbMrCKkuSMPOo7hqyQVbx77DICI61DZkJWKdM0z9t0vxrE0fhO7_xjU0geZPdAbrYmadhz9m1ias/s1600/DSCF0406%5B1%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKZn5nOdbfswr_5ErFTxs_5VhOzqQcicE9HtztdnuulXDBm6YtKPBDzx7PXB2NVcUtbMrCKkuSMPOo7hqyQVbx77DICI61DZkJWKdM0z9t0vxrE0fhO7_xjU0geZPdAbrYmadhz9m1ias/s320/DSCF0406%5B1%5D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-70692751534410074802012-12-30T11:00:00.001-08:002012-12-30T11:00:28.704-08:00sunset/sunriseFor the isNight() function of the Arduino intervalometer and datalogger an approximate sunset and sunrise is taken for each month - stored as ints in two arrays sunrise[12] and sunset[12]. <br />
<br />
Estimates will be based on the NAOO spreadsheet available from;<br />
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_30581426"><br /></a>
<a href="http://www.esrl.noaa.gov/gmd/grad/solcalc/calcdetails.html">http://www.esrl.noaa.gov/gmd/grad/solcalc/calcdetails.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
the rest of the program is heavily influenced by the adafruit temp/light 'fridgelogger'<br />
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_30581429"><br /></a>
<a href="http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/lighttemp.html">http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/lighttemp.html</a><br />
<br />
I've added a function for taking photos - but it isn't much more involved than blinking two LEDs. Ultimately one of these pins will turn on the GoPro (pull pin 30 low) and the other will drive the IR LED. Obviously I've also added the onewire and ds2348 libraries instead of using the analog pins.<br />
<br />
<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-69208306705148382862012-12-24T13:25:00.000-08:002013-01-08T14:02:01.619-08:00Arduino 1-wire Datalogger<h3>
Playing with bits of wire.</h3>
SD card and RTC tested.<br />
<br />
probably will use Lady Ada's fridge logger and SD/RTC test sketches as a template;<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/lighttempwalkthru.html">http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/lighttempwalkthru.html</a><br />
<br />
combining the RTC and SD examples to test the board have got me pretty close to it already;<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/download.html">http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/download.html</a> <br />
<br />
<a href="https://github.com/adafruit/SD">https://github.com/adafruit/SD</a><br />
<a href="https://github.com/adafruit/RTClib">https://github.com/adafruit/RTClib</a><br />
<br />
<br />
That all works. Need some data.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_OneWire.html">http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_OneWire.html</a><br />
<br />
One wire example picks up the DS1820 easily enough, need to look at humidity.<br />
<br />
This looks promising; <br />
<br />
<a href="https://code.google.com/p/gfb/source/browse/#svn/arduino/DS2438">https://code.google.com/p/gfb/source/browse/#svn/arduino/DS2438</a><br />
<br />
Some notes on it here, (may not be relevant) <br />
<br />
<a href="http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,49368.0.html">http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,49368.0.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
This looks like Arduino 1 code, replace<span class="com"> <span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">#include</span></span><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span class="pln"> </span><span class="str">"WConstants.h</span></span><span class="pln"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">" </span>with<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">#include "Arduino.h"<span class="pln">. </span></span><span class="pln">That's just something I read here; <a href="http://blog.makezine.com/2011/12/01/arduino-1-0-is-out-heres-what-you-need-to-know/">http://blog.makezine.com/2011/12/01/arduino-1-0-is-out-heres-what-you-need-to-know/</a></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This does something too...<br />
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_943944343"><br /></a>
<a href="http://tj3sat.wikidot.com/forum/t-255274/arduino-code-for-ds2438">http://tj3sat.wikidot.com/forum/t-255274/arduino-code-for-ds2438</a><br />
<br />
<br />
yet another link... sht15 more accurate than HIH4013?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/Sensirion">http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/Sensirion</a><br />
<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-30218622978163268922012-12-14T23:55:00.000-08:002012-12-15T02:13:31.746-08:00go pro notes<h4>
bus pinouts </h4>
http://goprouser.freeforums.org/the-gopro-hero-hd-bus-interface-moved-see-last-post-t797-50.html<br />
<br />
http://chargeconverter.com/blog/?p=71<br />
<br />
<h4>
pin 12 for time lapse</h4>
http://benlo.com/msp430/GoProController.html<br />
<br />
thanks to this site I got the name of the DD1P030MA1 connector;<br />
<br />
<a href="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/435699/?cm_mmc=UK-PPC-0212-_-03_Supplier_A-L_02_2012-_-JAE|Telephone_and_Telecom-_-DD1P030MA1">http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/435699/?cm_mmc=UK-PPC-0212-_-03_Supplier_A-L_02_2012-_-JAE|Telephone_and_Telecom-_-DD1P030MA1 </a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://uk.farnell.com/jae/dd1p030ma1/plug-dd1-0-5mm-30way/dp/1908651">http://uk.farnell.com/jae/dd1p030ma1/plug-dd1-0-5mm-30way/dp/1908651</a><br />
<br />
<h4>
IR board lens</h4>
<br />
http://scorpionvision.co.uk/catalogue-index/camera-lenses/board-camera-lenses-m12/1-9mm-lens-for-board-camera<br />
<br />
<br />
another arduino link<br />
<br />
http://code.google.com/p/arducam-osd/wiki/GoPro_HD_Hacking<br />
<br />
<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-67315261329167436252012-12-05T09:15:00.001-08:002012-12-15T13:23:29.325-08:00some Arduino links<h3>
http://www.oomlout.co.uk/arduino-usb-uno-p-252.html </h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
SD cards</h3>
<br />
http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/SD<br />
<br />
http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/SDCardNotes<br />
<br />
http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/sd.html<br />
<br />
<h3>
1 Wire</h3>
<br />
http://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/OneWire<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Datalogging</h3>
<br />
http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Datalogger<br />
<br />
http://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoweather/files/ <br />
<br />
http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/<br />
<br />
http://www.oomlout.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=256<br />
<br />
http://www.instructables.com/id/Logger-Shield-Datalogging-for-Arduino/<br />
<br />
http://makeprojects.com/Project/Arduino+Data-Logging+Shield+Kit/949/1#.UL_GWoVGMhs<br />
<br />
http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/buildingblocks/sd-card-logging<br />
<br />
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v5A3j7Rrco<br />
<br />
http://www.nuelectronics.com/estore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20<br />
<br />
http://www.nuelectronics.com/estore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=34 <br />
<br />
<br />
http://learn.adafruit.com/dht<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Time Lapse</h3>
http://www.instructables.com/id/arduino-module-for-time-lapse-photography/<br />
<br />
http://www.instructables.com/id/Time-Lapse-Photography/ <br />
<br />
http://benlo.com/msp430/GoProController.html <br />
<br />
http://interface.khm.de/index.php/lab/experiments/sleep_watchdog_battery/<br />
<br />
http://www.rocketscream.com/blog/2011/07/04/lightweight-low-power-arduino-library/ <br />
<br />
http://startgrid.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/tutorial-creating-timestamp-on.html<br />
<br />
<br />
http://simplecv.org/learn/examples.html<br />
<br />
http://bogdanmarian.com/motion/<br />
<br />
http://mikenz.geek.nz/blog/gopro-hd-hero2-arduino/<br />
<br />
http://www.instructables.com/id/IR-digital-camera-mod-keeps-autofocus-intact/step2/Remove-the-IR-reflective-coating/<br />
<br />
http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/ds18b20-arduino<br />
<br />
Sensors<br />
<br />
http://uk.farnell.com/honeywell-s-c/hih-6121-021-001/sensor-humidity-filtered/dp/2145997<br />
<br />
http://proto-pic.co.uk/humidity-and-temperature-sensor-dht22/?gclid=CIvJwvernbQCFSTLtAod5S0ABQ<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-11323744309452599752012-12-04T15:14:00.000-08:002012-12-04T15:14:13.495-08:00bufo duplo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifA8RLrPK5DwlbyPk5wC-yOwOt33gdRVEnqX1VZo5C9uWOqbfj_dwCwHXRn6OmRXBbjm_ArreDBkihWKEfmCqqlOIAYJRihuWtBmBOI-wjsn3EAnHaA53STHinVJ6tkgiQj7uzvNtfV40/s1600/DSCF0174.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifA8RLrPK5DwlbyPk5wC-yOwOt33gdRVEnqX1VZo5C9uWOqbfj_dwCwHXRn6OmRXBbjm_ArreDBkihWKEfmCqqlOIAYJRihuWtBmBOI-wjsn3EAnHaA53STHinVJ6tkgiQj7uzvNtfV40/s640/DSCF0174.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-9275771666208674302012-12-04T13:33:00.002-08:002012-12-04T13:33:44.312-08:00LightingI've been using these in tests so far;<br />
<h3>
Infrared T-1 LED 880nm 130° SFH487P </h3>
<br />
RS 654-8334<br />
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ir-leds/6548334/?searchTerm=654-8334&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E5D5C647B332C347D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D424552267573743D3635342D383333342677633D4E4F4E4526<br />
<br />
<br />
Note Anode (+ve) is the SHORT LEG!<br />
Vf = 1.5V<br />
If= 100mA<br />
<br />
six of them light the test tunnel area quite well, at 100mA they are taking almost as much power as my camera - but sensible options all seem to be coming in around this value.<br />
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
Infra-Red 850nm LED Star 950mW
"Golden Dragon"</h3>
<br />
RS 736-2358<br />
<br />
The Golden Dragon LED may be too powerful for lighting a 50cm tunnel, and even present a possible hazard... As 'IR illumination for cameras' is second on the list of applications to 'surveillance systems' I assume the H&S warnings pertain to 5A burst mode - I'll need to check this before I deploy one, but I'm picking up one to test.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
Vishay LED IrLED 940nm PLCC </h3>
<br />
RS 710-4944<br />
<br />
another wide beam IR LED with a reasonable output. Wavelength higher than the 880nm LED above, but SMT package less friendly<br />
<br />
Vf = 1.35V<br />
If = 100mA<br />
<br />
<br />
Looking at current draw v performance, i'm going to stick with RS 654-8334. (All my notes are still in the loft where I tested them.)<br />
<br />
<br />
For a rainy day;<br />
I'm thinking I could try and knock the voltage down for the dragon with a switch mode regulator and not have to burn so much power off, but if the LED's i have are good enough it might not be worth it. <br />
Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-1023827407034683452012-12-04T13:28:00.000-08:002012-12-04T13:28:16.118-08:00notes on time lapse method<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj7hpIG5NqftgO6kxDcZITGLihNmZdGMeh1sQa_QCxdqoxyHyLglqpk1dvrN7BFxC-AFGTN3ytHHvGB9X2mQ4P-1H_F-Wr5GfkviaTMFT3pfZvphwF4VSUaI3DLJCPO-dA4b6PvYFZjbw/s1600/DSCF0175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj7hpIG5NqftgO6kxDcZITGLihNmZdGMeh1sQa_QCxdqoxyHyLglqpk1dvrN7BFxC-AFGTN3ytHHvGB9X2mQ4P-1H_F-Wr5GfkviaTMFT3pfZvphwF4VSUaI3DLJCPO-dA4b6PvYFZjbw/s320/DSCF0175.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Fig 1 - Bufocam 001 - The camera input is currently taking a video feed from my media player.<br /><br />
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I'm drawing a line under ARM processors for now as <b>the funding is here</b> and moving forward with the working Vivotek device and independent temp/humidity loggers. The massive tuffbox full of lead acid batteries is unattractive, so now Plan A is in the bag with off the shelf parts and a correspondingly short lead time. I'm looking at another option that as been on the back burner.<br />
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Time lapse recording in the trail cameras I've looked at (bushnell / reconyx) is limited to 1 frame a minute. Looking at work in Canada and mean amphibian velocities (Hels 2001) it is know that this frequency is too slow, certainly for Rana temporaria! The Bushnell I have would also be a really shit choice of camera to put in a tunnel.<br />
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A system that can capture images every 10/20/30 seconds is going to need a bit more work;<br />
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I like the image of time lapse with PIC, (for battery consumption), but as it's already been done with Arduino it would seem sensible to go with what's out there. Either way it just seems like a matter of physically switching the shutter button; http://www.instructables.com/id/Time-Lapse-Photography/<br />
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Stripping the IR cut filter is another well trodden path; http://www.nigelrichards.org.uk/Experiments%20in%20Infrared.htm<br />
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Getting the images out of the camera while leaving it in situ relies on it behaving like a USB storage device - and no settings would need to be adjusted - ie 'PC mode'. maybe the intervalometer needs to be disabled during this task.<br />
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Then tie all this in with an SD card and 1-wire libraries... see earlier post.<br />
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Camera requirements that I can think of...</h3>
silent(ish) and no focussing lights<br />
wakes up ready to take photos with last settings.<br />
takes a 32gb SD card<br />
IR moddable<br />
behaves as USB storage device<br />
wide angle lens - or will take adaptor<br />
decent sensor - low noise in low light<br />
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Reviewing the time-lapse images doesn't seem so bad once they are compiled as a movie. I've had some success running a time-lapse movie through motion detection too, (which is why the prototype bufocam is plugged into my media player). The smart solution will be something like a simplecv script I guess - for now watching it through seems ok.<br />
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All i need now is an Arduino and a compact camera to hack apart. Any donors out there please get in touch.... Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8484073583968745836.post-88014326595929887002012-11-22T11:55:00.004-08:002012-11-22T11:55:54.125-08:00Vivotek 8102<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidEeDxiVrlPUHplfyc6zrISYM1yZiyEJBp1KaIOOgYoc_S0LCQEPCnNe7VIuHVa1DrK-wv7XuSJ8IqdixxuosGkWbN4Q5rXQrtZSA_6sTcfP9HnCKeg3-87CpirUwCrhs4OjaBVeb3DYU/s1600/snapshot20121122_171912M.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidEeDxiVrlPUHplfyc6zrISYM1yZiyEJBp1KaIOOgYoc_S0LCQEPCnNe7VIuHVa1DrK-wv7XuSJ8IqdixxuosGkWbN4Q5rXQrtZSA_6sTcfP9HnCKeg3-87CpirUwCrhs4OjaBVeb3DYU/s320/snapshot20121122_171912M.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Having a look at the Vivotek video server with local SD storage. Pictures are ok... need to set up my test tunnel before testing the sensitivity.<br /><br />Cappertilhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17271610692920682434noreply@blogger.com0